Kokkino equals 'Kool' Style
by Patricia Noonan

The last time I went to Kokkino, I was joining a group for a casual dinner on a frigidly cold winter night. The warm Mediterranean vibe and the parade of plates that continued to grace the table soon changed the impact of the weather on my pysche. That's the thing about Greek food. It's an experience of abundance. Fast forward to summer and overflowing patios and the vexing question of which Greek restaurant to choose.... I did hear that Restaurant Makeover had worked some magic on Kokkino so I decided to revisit. You know the show; it's where the design team makes over the restaurant and the menu.

The space has gone from 'red' which is what Kokkino means in Greek, to a transformation that gives the place a sexy edge. The food has to maintain that balance too. I like variety, so I go with the 'Dip Platter' which includes hummus, tzatsiki, taramosalata and tirokafteri. They're presented with the freshest, warm pita, the slightly charred marks from the grill visible on the bread. The tzatziki is as close as Tzanetos, the owner, can get to what he's used to having from his ocean front town back home. No garlic overkill or thick, gelatinous yogurt here, and the cucumber makes it's delicate presence known in the mix. Tangy, refreshing and light. Another warm pita triangle to scoop up some tirokafteri. The zing of hot banana peppers and feta blend with a hit of red pepper and I'm almost on a Greek island. The presentation is like a painters palette, the inviting little mountains of dip adorned with tiny black olives and angular chunks of cheese. The next dish, the 'kadafied' shrimp, arrives. A finely chopped salad of peppers, onions, tomatoes and cucumber are the fresh counterpoint to a trio of jumbo shrimp rolled in phyllo and deep fried to crispy perfection.

I glance around at the room from the patio while munching. The decor is a mix of modern minimal style with Middle Eastern inspired lamps gracing the bar. Shades of black and white with splashes of red from the table lamps 'up the ante' of cool.

The restaurant is beginning to fill up. Then the seafood platter appears. Fleshy octopus, calamari, shrimp and mussels are simply grilled and arranged on the square platter. A squeeze of lemon and we're good to go.( If I close my eyes, I'm just sitting on a seaside terrace now...) I like the idea of the sesame crusted Tilapia. The generous filet has a toasted black and white sesame seed coating. The creamy roasted flavour of the seeds contrasts with the sweet fresh quality of the fish. It even matches the decor...was this planned?

The menu is scaled down and sticks to the classic concept of fresh, simple and local produce. Many of the dishes are meant to share. Kevin Leggat and Shain Beggs man the kitchen and Kevin tells me they source almost everything from the 'Danforth'. That's the best way to keep drawing business. Keep things fresh, simple and elegant. Kokkino has managed all three. It has gone through a hip transformation that gives the place a sexy edge and a menu that is an experience of sensual abundance."